How To Spec A Garment Like A Pro: The Key To Success In Fashion Design
When it comes to the world of fashion design, creating a garment that accurately reflects a designer's vision is crucial. Did you know that 90% of designers fail to achieve the desired fit on their first sample? This statistic highlights the importance of proper garment specification. In this guide, we'll break down the essential steps needed to spec a garment like a pro. You'll learn how measuring a sample garment as soon as it arrives is vital, as well as understanding the role of accurate technical sketches in achieving a successful first sample.
Understanding Garment Specification
Garment specification, or ‘spec’ing’, is a systematic process that translates a designer's creative vision into tangible garment production. It involves precise measurements, materials, and details that ensure the final product matches the intended design. By mastering this process, designers can vastly improve the quality and fit of their final garments.
Step 1: Initial Measurements of the Sample Garment
As soon as your sample garment arrives, you should perform initial measurements. This is your chance to evaluate how closely the sample aligns with your design specs. Use a simple measuring tape, a ruler, and a flat leveled measuring environment. Here are some key measurements to focus on:
Bust: Measure around the fullest part of the bust.
Waist: Measure around the natural waistline, which is typically above the belly button.
Hip: Measure the widest part of the hips.
Length: Measure from the highest point of the shoulder to the hem for dresses and tops, or from the waist to the hem for bottoms.
Sleeve Length: Measure from the shoulder seam to the wrist, or to the desired sleeve length.
All points of measure listed in the POM: The list is specific to the sample and is crucial to determine if the factory made an accurate sample with the provided measurements.
Document these measurements carefully, as you will need them to compare against your spec sheet.
Step 2: Creating Accurate Technical Sketches
Technical sketches are essential for communicating your design intent to manufacturers or pattern makers. A well-executed sketch gives a clear overview of the design's details, fit, and construction. To create effective technical sketches, consider the following:
Detailing: Ensure that you detail critical aspects such as stitches, seams, and finishing treatments.
Views: Display multiple views of the garment – front, back, and side (if necessary) views are a must. If necessary, use dotted or dashed lines to indicate hidden features or linings.
Annotations: Utilize annotated marks on your sketches to highlight particular measurements or construction details that may not be clear without explanation.
Illustration software: Consider using CAD (Computer-Aided Design) software to create your technical sketches. This method allows for precision and easier adjustments.
Step 3: Utilizing a Spec Sheet
A spec sheet serves as a detailed blueprint for your garment and includes all relevant measurements, materials, labels, trims, and construction specifications. Here’s what to include in your spec sheet:
Material specifications: List fabrics, linings, and interfacings. Specify whether they're natural fibers or synthetic.
Sizing information: Specify your size range and what constitutes each size (ex. small, medium, large).
Construction methods: Include notes on stitching, finishing, and any special processes.
Accessibility need: Consider how easy the garment is to put on and take off along with the intended use (casual, business, etc.).
Step 4: Testing the Fit
Testing the fit of the garment is a crucial step in the spec process. Once you have your first sample, schedule a try-on session with a fit model. Pay close attention to the following:
Overall fit: Ensure the garment drapes correctly and is not too tight or loose in key areas.
Ease of Movement: Have the model perform movements like sitting and reaching to assess comfort and mobility.
Adjustments: Note where adjustments are required. This could include extending hems, adjusting seams, or changing the silhouette altogether.
Step 5: Making Adjustments and Finalizing
Based on feedback from the fit session, make all necessary adjustments. This may involve collaborating with your pattern maker to alter the original pattern for better accuracy. Once all adjustments are made, order a final sample to validate those corrections.
Final Measurements: Re-measure the adjusted sample to ensure all changes were executed correctly.
Final Thoughts: The Importance of Specification
Spec'ing garments properly is vital in the fashion design world. Missteps can lead to production delays, cost overruns, and unsatisfactory final products. Understanding how to accurately measure, sketch, and communicate your design will ensure that your vision is realized and that your brand stands out in a crowded marketplace.
Expertise: With practice, garment spec’ing will become easier and more intuitive. Understanding the nuances involved in fabric selection, measurements, and fit will elevate your design practice significantly.
So now what? Consider the methods discussed above as stepping stones to developing your garment specification skills. By making detailed and precise specifications, you can boost your chances of achieving the designs as you envisioned. If you’re looking to get professional help, create an efficient workflow, or delve deeper into the technical aspects of garment design, Book a Call to discuss your project!